• My 21st Century Workbench
  • Dry Erase Pen Holders
  • Roubo iPad Stands
  • Beer Stein Cabinet
  • York Pitched Krenovian Handplane

Wow… I finally have a place I can call “home” again with a reliable internet connection.  Throughout the house-hunting process, a make-or-break for us was whether or not the home had a spot I could house ol’ Snakeye Woodworks.  Trust me, this unbending priority stopped us from renting a place or two that we otherwise liked.

Prior to moving to Britain, I felt like I was getting some good time in the shop.  Especially since I had this unyielding weight over my shoulders to finish about five projects in the time I could only finish one.  And I didn’t even make it that far; I still have at least two or three weekends of good work to finish my living room table (and that is just to get it physically built… not finished).  So my shop, and projects at various production stages, still sit in boxes for the time being.  Soon though, I will have all the time in the world to just sit and work without a deadline of moving looming over me.

Though I found a place to house Snakeye Woodworks, I don’t have anything remotely close to a working shop.  It’s a one-car garage:

Snakeye PreWorkshop

Over the next few weeks, I’ll be diverting the money and time I use for woodworking towards building a shop I would be proud to work in.  As you can see, I think I have my work cut out for me.

On the to-do list:

  • Replace the garage door (it’s broken).  The landlord agreed to cover this expense.
  • Broken garage door

  • Hire a flooring person to put down a floor.  I toyed with the idea of buying some plywood and setting it down, but the landlord knows all the people in town that do this type of stuff and said it would be less expensive and easier to get it done by an expert.  Time is money and my time is limited, so my landlord wins out.  I think I’m going with the cushioned vinyl floor that looks like a wood floor (it will probably be easier to clean up sawdust this way too).
  • Concrete garage floor

  • Hire an electrician to wire some plug sockets and fluorescent-tube lights.  I’d do it myself, but I guess there are safety codes in place that prevent this.  So I’ll need to install a few overhead lights, with at least two plug sockets to run a space heater, my shop vac, and my Bose/iPod speaker combo.
  • lack of good lighting

  • Replace the rotting wood shelves with something that is more interior-oriented.  This will probably hold my tools until I get my Anarchist’s Tool Chest built.
  • weather-rotted shelves

  • A thorough cleaning.  There’s spider webs, leaves, rot and bird shit all over the place.
  • Birdshit 'n' cobwebs

Until further notice, all woodworking projects are on a tactical pause until I have a facility that can accommodate them.  More posts on the progress later.  Luckily (unlike those websites where guys brag about how grand their shops are with all the electrical considerations and intricacies), I have no power tools to set up so this shop will be quite simple.

I guess as you delve into the art or wood creativity, it’s easy to start making friends through blogs, woodworking classes, or conventions that share the same interests.  It’s even cooler when, by off chance, you happen to make that friendship and it crosses paths throughout your woodworking saga.

I was looking up hand-built wooden handplanes one day, and came across a blog called “Toolerable” where he made his own Jointer Plane (of the Krenovian style out of Maple).  I was intrigued and began following his blog.  Brian: thanks for meeting me out in Tegernsee!

A toast to Toolerable

I also received a consolation prize, hand-built by Brian himself (in his series to encourage beginners to hand-tools with only the most fundamental of tools): a half-lapped Square (in my hand above and shown, in its full glory, below).

The Toolerable Square

I haven’t gotten around to building one of these yet (nor do I have a square that’s over 4 inches), so this is the perfect addition that I needed.  I only wish I would’ve had the same forethought to build something in return.  Brian: it will get continual use in my shop… just wait!

Of course, Brian wrote up a better post than I, which includes his finish that I was grilling him about… finishing is something that I’m still trying to find my way.  I’ve been wanting to do an almost purely wax finish, and that’s exactly what Brian did with this; his instructions provided here.

 

I realized, in the process of packing up my hand tool shop to move, that I still have 3 projects in various stages of completion (except, of course, the last stage… which is complete).  To maximize my efficiency, I have to make the decisions of an overbooked hospital: what can I actually accomplish with my time and tools available?  In other words: Triage.

So.  The Anarchist’s Tool Chest?  Packed and enroute to England.  The Table that I was so close to finishing?  Packed and enroute to England.  But the Bubinga block I set aside to mold into a York Pitched Hand Plane?  Saved and still with me!

There’s an upside and downside to doing this project during these stressed times.  The bad: I’m a complete hypocrite… I used 100% power tools to complete the project, because that’s all I had at my disposal.  The good: I knocked off a project that could have joined the others in a 6-month hiatus.

I measured and cut a 50° blade angle (and 62° front angle) using a table saw… I would’ve used a band saw (in accordance with David Finck), but the woodshop already had a jig that measured out and cut accurate angles via a table saw.  The jig (believe it or not) brought it flat and true.

Hand Plane sides

HandPlane-Blade-and-BevelI jumped a step and, rather than set the pegs to keep the sides (and mouth of the plane) set at a certain distance, I routed out the slot for the chip breaker screw.  After I routed the slot, I checked it and started closing the mouth until the blade was about two millimeters shy of the opening.  So far it looks good…

Now to jump tracks.  So far I’ve been using this awesome figured Bubinga… but I wanted a little bit of contrast, so I used Italy’s common weed-wood: Beech.  Cross Pin - cutting the shouldersI cut a square strip of it and, with a hollow bit used to make plugs, I drilled the pegs for the cross pin.  Then it’s just a matter of carefully using a bandsaw to take down the shoulders (at left).  I stress carefully (that’s pretty close for fingers with a bandsaw – I would’ve much preferred my back saw).

Now it’s just a matter of putting the blade in place (above right) and measuring out where you will center the cross pin.  I did this per David Finck’s guidance.

With the cross-pin set, now it’s just a matter of glueing it up.  I honestly used about 10 clamps to make this happen.  It was semi-tedious to ensure the temporary pins and the cross pin line up as you tighten… and you don’t want to get glue on the blade bed/throat of the plane!  Consider yourself forewarned.

After 24 hours of setting and flattening the soul of the plane (again, I cheated and used the base shop’s big drum sander for this), it’s time for the fun part: shaping the plane.  Ok, really I would’ve preferred to make some test cuts with a sharp blade, but I didn’t have a way to sharpen the blade and I had accidentally dropped it, putting a nick in it on one edge, as I was building the plane.

HandPlane Shaping

I found the best way to shape it was by drawing on the side of the plane and cutting to the line with a bandsaw.  Of course, that keeps everything very square and not too comfortable to hold.

Wedge-test-FitSo to get to a more organic, comfortable shape, I fine tuned the basic shape with a Disc Sander.  Of course, I started with a Random Orbital Sander you see above (using 60-grit paper), but that was taking me forever!  Once Stefano showed me the disc sander, it made quick work of the final shaping: about 30 minutes to get the final shaping.  For the wedge, I used the scrap triangular piece of Bubinga (cut from making the throat of the plane) and added in a Beech stripe.  This was shaped the same way: cut on the band saw, sanded to final shape on the disc/belt sander, then fine tuned with an orbital sander.

Then back to the Random Orbital Sander with a fine grain for final sanding.  A little bit of Boiled Linseed Oil, and viola.

The finished Bubinga York Pitched Jack Plane

One project finished via triage; two more to go once I get my feet under me in England.  Of note, I got to hang out with the guy that originally inspired me to do this project while in transit to England, but that’s for the next post… gimme a little bit to get back on my feet!

Rather than woodwork the last two weekends, I had to prep the shop to be shipped off to Britain. I took apart and cleaned each tool and put a coat of Jojoba oil on prior to them all being packed up. Because I didn’t feel like breaking down the workbench, I told them that it needed to be shipped as-is. They had to build a special wooden crate just to hold it – have fun moving that beast! As with all my valuables, I took a photo (for insurance purposes) that catalogues what I own in case of damage or loss. So here’s Snakeye Woodworks in a nutshell:

Woodshop in a Nutshell

Bummer, I never did finish the table I was working on. Hopefully what I’ve done so far makes it to England ok and I can pick up work where I left off. But I’ve learned one thing from delving into the realm of hand tools in the past 3 years:

Enjoyable woodworking, like a fulfilled life, is not about the reaching the destination… it’s truly about the journey that takes you there. Sure, I love seeing the end product when I’ve finished, but I enjoy the therapy involved in creating with wood so much more. And hand tools (for me) has made it more enjoyable because I can listen to music or enjoy relative quietness while I work.

Even though I started building things from wood back in 2003, I’ve learned almost everything I now employ during the past 3 years.  Granted, I do owe a lot of gratitude to my Dad; he was always building things with his Shopsmith when I was a boy, and planted the “woodworking seed” in my head.  Unfortunately when I was a boy, I didn’t have much of an interest in it… I thought electronics were the bee’s knees back then.  Granted I still like my fair share of electronics, but I’ve come to realize that good electronics last only 10 years at best… good woodworking lasts centuries.  I’ll take the latter!

Train Table for my sonSo my learning curve started accelerating when, on a whim, I went to the military base wood shop to build a birthday present for my son.  A local Italian guy, Stefano, ran the wood shop and helped me out (perhaps initially more to keep me safe than to ensure it turned out exactly as I’d wanted it!).  It was then that I realized that I didn’t know much of the craft: the expanding and contracting of wood during the seasons, the joinery, and how to use the machines without killing yourself (you ever try to run end-grain through a jointer machine?).

I took a 7-month vacation to Afghanistan after that and, while there, had the revelation of switching to hand tools.  My wife was a little reluctant to let me spend every Saturday at the base wood shop while I was building my son’s toy table.  Hand tools were my solution to wood working at home (besides, power tools would’ve instantly blew the fuse to my house).  That quest detailed here.  After a lot of research, I came home on a mission… and I quickly enlisted the expertise of Stefano in order to stand up a home woodshop.  The first tool to obtain?  A personally-built workbench.  I executed my plan while Stefano checked everything I did.  And when Stefano was out for quite some time from back surgery, two other regulars stepped in and imparted their knowledge to help me: Mark and Mike.

Nowadays, I think the three of them look at me like I’m crazy because I’m a fervent hand-tool believer, but they still continue to mentor me and help me out… and I can actually now counter with ideas of my own to help them out.  Like in medieval times, I owe these guys a lot for taking me into apprenticeship.  They may have the last laugh here soon though… when I move to England, I will be no where near a US military base (that typically has a woodshop for use)… and British bases aren’t armed with the same morale luxuries.  I may very well have to put my money where my hand-tool-toting mouth is.

You see, I’ve been kinda cheating: I buy the wood from Stefano and use his shop’s power tools to clean, square and dimension the wood; then I take it home for the joinery and finishing with my hand tools.  I think wood purchasing will be easy enough (after all, I’m in England), but with no power tool shop available, it looks like I’ll be even cleaning and dimensioning wood by hand.  So the journey continues…

But in reflection: thanks boys, for arming me with the know-how that I use today… and giving me a memorable 3 year journey.

Mike, Mark, me and Stefano

from left to right: Mike, Mark, me and Stefano

Like that promiscuous animal, a multiplying joint in my table project appears to be the rabbet joint.  The prevailing mantra that is permeating this project is that it’s never as easy as it seems.  A while back ago, I wrote about why I like hand tool work over power tool work: you have time to correct mistakes.  The flip side of this?  It can be slow… like really slow, going sometimes.

Unless it just hasn’t hit my Neanderthal brain yet, I’ve been tackling rabbets with my Veritas plow plane.  If you’re planing the entire length of the board, rabbets should be brainless right?  Wrong… not when they need to be ¾” deep. After about 30 minutes worth of marking depths and coming up with a plan, I started the cuts with the plow plane.

The rail-rabbet plan

An aside, I don’t think I’m a giant fan of the Veritas plow plane because I get mixed results with it (that could very possibly be attributed to being a beginner).  It can only plane in one direction: the left handed direction.  I don’t feel like spending the money to buy a left and right handed one either.  To be honest, I’d prefer a simple shoulder plane of the Lie-Neilsen variety with a fence on it that you can move from one side to the other.  I guess the pro’s can use their thumb or something as a fence for a pretty accurate rabbet cut; I’m not there just yet.

So once the rabbet is distinguished with the plow plane, I switch over to Old Faithful: my shoulder plane.  I planed the 5-foot long rail shaving by shaving.  And after about 30 more minutes and 10% into my ¾” deep rabbet, I threw in the towel. There has got to be a better way to remove waste.

So I fallback to my caveman’s club: the chisel.  After about 10 minutes of chipping away at an inches-length of the rabbet (and being extremely careful to avoid splitting… which is damn near impossible for something like this), I realized that this wasn’t such a good way to go either.  It would take me forever with an extremely high risk of splitting the entire rail.

With a sigh, I started setting the pieces aside to bring to the power tool shop nearby my house.  With a table saw or router, these cuts would be over in a matter of minutes.  So much for aspiration of building my first project entirely by hand tools.

Enter my ultra-stubborn brother-in-law (and trust me, I do mean this in the most flattering of ways – he ultimately saved the virginity of this project).  He’s recently gotten into wood working too, using this chest as one of his launching boards into the hobby.  He is currently cut from the power tool cloth, but was interested to see what hand tool work was all about.  Brother In Law doing my workSo, in a vain effort to prevent the wood from “winning”, he took up the plow plane.  (This is almost like Tom Sawyer getting all his buddies to white-wash the fence he was tasked to do!).  Using the example I’d shown him in my impatient, defeated attempt at one of the rails, he grabbed the other rail and started planing.  He didn’t like the plow plane too much either, so he switched to the shoulder plane like I did.  He planed, and he planed, and he planed…

And about 1½ hours later, he surfaced with sore hands, a built-up sweat, and a ¾” deep rabbet across the entire 5 feet of the rail!  All done by a single ½-millimeter shaving at a time.  Unbelievable.

A deep rabbetPerhaps I was ready to switch tracks too soon.  Because of him, I now had my motivation back; I will still be able to brag that this table was done completely by hand.  I grabbed the other rail and continued where I left off… taking one ½-millimeter of waste at a time.  After another 1½ hours, I had two 5-foot long rails with a ¾” rabbet cut into their length.  With the cuts now at the proper depth, I flipped both the rails on their sides and used the shoulder plane to clean and square up the walls of the rabbets.  Total time spent today doing this (including planning the joints, marking them, and cutting them)? We were probably near the 5 hour mark.  So perhaps this could’ve been done by a table saw in 30 minutes total, but burning a day to cut these rabbets gained me greater experience with that joint and saved the “hand tool only” virginity of the project.

The lesson learned so far?  Don’t set such a high goal to accomplish a lot in little time.  I assumed that I’d have the entire base glued up by the end of the day.  Far from it.  But this “lesson” will be a separate post for a different day.

I lightly chamfered the edges of both the shell and the base board and clamped them together just to see the work that was accomplished:

2 rails complete

This was supposed to be the easy part: I have the glass that I’m re-using from the original table top, and I’m building a new top around it.  The joinery is simple!  Half-laps using a saw and jack plane to join the boards, and rabbets using a plow plane along the inside to drop the glass into.

Only I wish it worked out like that.  The problem?  Well, first off, the boards for the front and back of the top were slightly shorter that what I needed.  So to lengthen the table, I could not do the direct half-lap; I needed some spacing built in.  See the image below for explanation – the arrows point to where the spacing is for added table top length (which completely complicates the joint).

top-halflap

Since this joint isn’t a quick fix, I pushed forward with the rabbets first.  The long boards were easy because I could plane the entire board.  But the short boards (the darker brown boards in the diagram above) proved a little trickier because the rabbets had to have stops; they could go no farther than where they met the lighter colored board.  So I chiseled out a small portion, maybe an inch or so, from each end to act as a “safety” to ensure I didn’t plow any farther than that.  And then I got to plowing the rabbets – but I noticed that for some reason, I kept making banana passes (ie, the middle of the rabbet was deeper than the outsides), and I just couldn’t correct it no matter how much downward force I used.  I was starting to put a LOT of muscle into it until I realized what was going on.  rabbet-noseThe blade wasn’t meeting the wood because the straight-edge of the plane was preventing the blade from doing so due to the raised surfaces.  That’s a mouthful, but the picture at right should sum that mouthful up.

So to correct this, I pulled out the jack-of-all-trades tool: the trusty chisel.

Honestly, the chisel can perform almost every task, by brute force, which any other tool can do.  About the only exception I can think of off the top of my head is sawing (as in re-sawing), but in some circumstances the chisel “chop” can replace a saw cut as well.  Of course, there are more refined tools out there that specialize in various tasks which, in turn, increase the efficiency and speed of your work.  But if you think about it, the chisel is much like the caveman’s club. Over the centuries, mankind eventually develops the spear which improves efficiency… then the bow and arrow… then gunpowder and guns… but when it just comes down to it and you just need to get the job done, mankind still falls back on the trusty caveman’s club.  Hell, if I’m not mistaken, police officers still use it regularly to this day!

So, it took me a little extra time cleaning up the first stopped rabbet with a chisel, as well as increasing the length of my stops on my other board.

halflapNow onto the half laps that I purposefully detoured.  The long boards were easy enough, because the cut was your standard half lap.  Just like cutting a tenon, the key is maintaining an accurate saw cut to your line on the cheeks, and then make the shoulder cut and clean with a plane as required.  A test fit (at left) with the glass shows that everything is lining up.

Using the thickness remaining on these pieces, I used a marking gauge to transfer that thickness onto the cross boards (the same ones I made the stopped rabbets on).  This is what I was dreading.  I tried to cut as much away as possible with the saw, and then it was back to my caveman roots using a chisel and taking on the remainder of the joint by brute force.  It was slow going and a little rough at first, but my work sped up by the time I was on my third joint.

complex-halflap

bevelOnce they were cut, it was just a matter of fitting them together and continuing to clean out waste (with plane and chisel) until the two boards were mated relatively flat.  Some glue, clamps, and about 12 hours, and I had myself a table top.

If it’s exactly flat or exactly square, I really don’t care, as long as it holds things (they won’t slide off the table) and the glass drops into it accurately. I did, however, take a jointer plane, followed by a smoother, along each of the seams where the boards were mated to ensure an absolutely smooth transition from board to board.  Otherwise, I have a perfectly good table top where my beers and feet can rest.

Prior to setting this aside, I flipped it over and using my jointer plane, I beveled the underside edges (shown at right).

All that’s left now for the top is cutting four through-mortises into it.  But that will be the very last part of this entire build.  For now, it’s back to the base to finish the bottom shelf, cut the tenons into the posts, and do its final glue up.

Progress so far:

Table top

 

While others are out enjoying their Martin Luther King, Jr three-day weekend, I got called upon for alert duty.  Unless there’s something hot going on, this amounts to sitting around and doing nothing… and that, unfortunately, was what I was anticipating on doing.  So much for using the weekend to work on finishing my table (among the other 3 projects I’ve started).  But wait…

Then I recalled reading a post that Shannon did over at the Renaissance Woodworker where he brought the work with him to stifle off boredom.  Hmmm, this may very well be a great idea.

For Christmas I got a set of carving chisels – the Chris Pye set.  I have never carved, and I started spawning an interest in it because I want to customize the Tool Chest that I’m about to tackle (by carving an insignia on the front of it).  So, in case nothing happened during my 12-hr shift on both Saturday and Sunday, I packed up two hand-clamps, a few small scrap pieces of wood, a small mallet, and my carving chisel set.

Watch Carving the Camellia Woodcarver on PBS. See more from pbs.

Sketch your carvingArmed with only a brief glimpse of Mary May performing her magic on the Woodwright’s Shop (above), I set about to replicate her work – it looks pretty easy. Well… not so much… but I did learn a few things along the way.

With a projector, I set up my block of wood to trace the image.  Since I have a branding iron of my Snakeye Logo (pictured in the sketch at right), I decided to attempt to replicate that first – and I use “attempt” in the heaviest of terms.  The wood blank that I’m using is Elm, my favorite wood for furniture building.

I clamped it down, and began (as in the video) cutting out the lines with the V-chisel.

Tip #1: Beware the grain.  As you cut with the grain, it will tend to run (especially if you’re grooving against the grain).  Moreover, as you transverse the grain, especially over thin protrusions like the border or letters that stick out of the wood, take care not to chip the entire thing out. This happened to me once or thrice.

Carving halfway doneAs you can see at left, Tip #1 was hard-learned through experience; I chipped out part of the border as well as a little bit of the cursive signature.  But, you learn more from mistakes and defeat than you do from wins and doing everything exact the first time… (as I say this through gritted teeth).

All in all, it took me maybe 5 hours total (condensed time – I stretched this out over my 12-hour shift).

It came out all right.  It sucks that it got chipped out here and there, but I take a step back and without light, it looks just too busy to me.  I think I needed to use a flatter carving chisel to gouge out the background and prevent the busyness.  So I guess the next thing to figure out is how to chisel out, accurately and smoothly, the little details.  I’m at a loss.  But perhaps with experience, I will figure it out.  But for the time being, let me tell you, those protruding letters were a bitch!

Finished Snakeye Logo

So day 2 of weekend duty: to correct the mistakes from day 1.  This time, I wanted to do something with a little less protruding detail.  Perhaps I tried to build the Eiffel Tower as my first ever building.  This time, I used a scrap piece of Mahogany (rather than Elm) and a different image/logo.  So back to the same litany: project the image onto the wood, sketch it out, grab the V-chisel and start carving out the lines.  Chisel out the interior and start to fine tune…

Tip #2: Your choice in wood will make a pretty big difference.  Elm is very stringy… at least the Elm that I was working with – it was pretty hard to carve with.  Choose your wood wisely.  Mahogany was a dream to carve with (especially after doing my first piece on the Elm), and I think it shows below.

Tip #3: When it comes to lettering or other fine details, female “inny” carving is much, MUCH easier than male “outy” carving.  I think this is perhaps why most letters you see are carved into the wood, rather than protruding from it.  The stars (below) were WAY easier to carve out than if they were carved to be protruding.  For further expounding on why male “protruding” letters are tough, see Tip #1.

The Triple Nickel

I am definitely satisfied with how the patch (above) turned out.  Since I’m moving soon and need a gift as my “going away,” perhaps I will turn this into the top of a Mahogany cigar humidor .. if I only had the time.

So, in two days I’ve gone from not having ever carved a thing, to carving something at least somewhat recognizable.  Next is to see how Beech takes to carving (since that’s what most of my Tool Chest will be).  So far in the tally: Elm = 0, Mahogany = 1.  Most of all, I’ve learned a lot that you can’t replicate… unless you do it.  Go carve.

Twin Carvings

I don’t know why I caught the bug, but I did.  I think the flame had kindled when I started wanting a set of molding planes.  The big name that I’ve seen is Matt Bickford – a set of his planes is in the ballpark of $3000.  I honestly don’t have that kind of money laying around… yet.  So I put the idea on the back burner for a bit.  Then, while I was daydreaming (which consists of Google searches on the subject) about molding planes, I came across a guy (over at Toolerable) that is attempting to build a set himself.  Then I started researching that Matt Bickford had started the same way – he didn’t have the money to get a ton of molding planes, so he researched and built himself a set.  Perhaps this is the path I should take?

One post back on Toolerable, and Brian created this beautiful maple jointer plane.  At this point, I’m inspired.  So I went on over to David Finck’s site (who explains how to make these Krenovian-style wooden planes) and bought the book and DVD.  I figured a standard hand plane is a good way to start learning how to build one before I venture into specialty planes, like ones for moldings.

I had bought some smaller figured Bubinga boards for use on small projects… perhaps for making one of those Roubo iPad stands or a dry erase pen holder.  I did both of those with one of the two boards I bought.  And then it dawned on me: I think the other board, once cut and laminated up, would make a beautiful plane!

Figured Bubinga board

Since I already have a large, heavy jointer plane, I think I’m gonna shoot for the jack of all trades: a Jack Plane.  Now, I already have one (from the beginner’s package I had bought from Lie-Nielsen), but it’s a low-angle Jack Plane; the one I want to build will be at a York pitch of 50°.  Why the York?  Because so far, all of the work I’ve done and want to continue to do, has been on hardwoods: Beech, Elm, Walnut and Mahogany.

A brief explanation of what certain angles of blade (ie, the pitch) buy you:

  • Low Angle – 40° or less: low angle pitchthis acts more as a knife slicing through the fibers of the wood.  Therefore, this is particularly good for trimming and slicing through the finicky end-grain.  Most planes with a low-angle pitch have a bevel-up setup, so if you add the bed angle (usually 10-15°) and the blade hone/bevel angle (usually ~25°), you get about a ~40° total pitch.  The advantage is the razor-sharp knife slice that allows the trimming of the end-grain; the downfall is that the blade is much more prone to lose it’s razor-sharp edge quicker (or even chip in some cases)
  • Common Pitch – 45°: 45 degree pitchapparently, most planes are set to this because it’s the best trade-off of slicing the wood and maintaining your sharp edge.  Hundreds of years of plane use have shown that this is the most optimum angle for softwoods and straight-grained hardwoods.  Consider this giving the most versatile options in planing.  The bevel is down from here on as the angles increase, so the bed angle is the pitch angle.
  • York Pitch – 50°: 50 deg pitchOptimum for hardwoods and especially figured hardwoods.
  • Middle Pitch – 55°: Mostly found in molding planes designed for softwoods.
  • Half Pitch – 60°: Mostly found in molding planes designed for hardwoods.
  • 70°+: Used mainly in more specialized planes such as snipes and some rabbet planes.

So, from the book and everything I’ve researched, it seems like it’s ok to laminate up a blank or  use a whole log… hell, I’ve even read to where the direction of the grain (where it will expand or contract perpendicular to the growth rings) isn’t that big of deal… but the one thing that I’ve seen that you must absolutely follow is to ensure the slope of the grain runs down toward the back of the blank (or eventually, the plane).  Here’s my 15″-long blank, with the super-imposed grain run.  Really though, in my case the majority of the grain runs this way, but the grain in this wavy Bubinga is all over the place…

Bubinga Plane Blank with Grain runNext is to get this block exactly square… and then truthfully, it will probably sit until after I move (T minus 5 weeks) and get to it – I still have to order a blade.  I’m going to get a 1¾” blade with a chip breaker – but now I’m trying to decide if I should order a blade from David Finck or get one from Lie-Nielsen… To be continued.

I’m left-handed… in fact, I’m so left-handed that I’d probably be burned at the stake not 4-500 years ago.  A quick side-fact: “Left” in Italian is “sinistra” – sounds a lot like sinister.  Don’t believe my left-handedness?  I (obviously) write with my left hand.  In my house, the computer mouse is always on the left side of the keyboard.  My wife got sick of moving it back all the time, so she puts up with it.  I throw balls with my left hand.  I open cans and use scissors with my left hand.  Up until I started flying jets, I even flew predominantly with my left hand.  Then I started flying a jet where the controls were against the right side of the cockpit – so the force adjustment was automatic.  Believe it or not though, it was easy to pick up because I could fly it no other way.

Like that same ground-up training that I experienced in a “right-handed” jet, I find that it’s easy to switch between hands in my infancy of hand-tool work because I haven’t built any habits yet.  Though I feel more comfortable using my left hand over my right hand in woodworking, I haven’t noticed too much degradation in switching from left to right.  It’s not like trying to write with my right hand (in which case my 4-year-old would be more legible), or eat with my right hand (in which case I’d starve, but my pants and the floor certainly wouldn’t go hungry).

I built my workbench off of Bob Lang’s 21st Century Workbench design with the intent of making it a “left hand” bench.  After reading Chris Schwarz’s book on workbenches, it took me a little bit to figure out and understand what the difference was between a “left hand” bench and a “right hand” one.  All I knew is that, since I’m a die-hard south paw, I wanted a “left handed” bench!  I started building my bench.  Prior to mounting the top onto the base, I drilled 2 holes to mount the tail vice… and then when I test mounted the top, I realized I drilled the holes on the wrong side making it what Chris described as a “right hand” bench in his book.  I was horrified and faced with 3 courses of action: 1) I could attempt to cut out really thick dowel blanks to plug the holes and redrill on the other side, 2) I could just chop where I drilled, sacrificing maybe 6″ in table length, and drill on the other side, or 3) I could just press and have a right-hand configured bench.  I didn’t want to shorten it nor mar the bench top this early with plugs; I went with COA 3.

So what’s the difference between a right-handed and left-handed bench?  It’s only where you put the vices. Ultimately, you want to be pushing into the vice holding your piece (like the image on the right).  In this, you are pushing into the friction rather than trying to pull the piece from the friction. If I plane left-handed from my twin-screw vice, I’m essentially pulling the board (via friction) from the vice (like the image on the left).

Left vs Right Hand Vice Configuration

I’ve now been using my “right-handed” bench for over a year.  My horrified vice misplacement was a farce; to this day I have absolutely zero regrets in choosing COA 3, rather than reconfiguring it to be left-handed.  First, I’ve not found that planing opposite the vice (as in the left picture) pulls the piece from the vice – the twin screw vice actually holds the pieces pretty well, especially if you use the entire length of the vice to grip the piece.  Second, I’ve found that it’s quite natural to swap from planing left-handed to planing right-handed when I do face problems.  In fact, my sawing is more true with my off-hand (right, in my case) than it is with my accustomed hand because my off hand allows the saw to do more work with less interference (whereas my dominant hand, I think, subconsciously tries to over-guide the saw).

Perhaps, for the first time in my life, I’m giving up championing my left hand and advocating for an ambidextrous stance.  I’ve only been hand-tooling-it-up for about a year now, so part of it is because I haven’t had time to form strong muscle-memory in woodworking.  But I’m hoping I can keep up the ambidextrousity.

And now for the bottom line: Don’t be set or intimidated on left or right hand tools or styles.  Your body will learn to use what you present it with (especially if you are early in the hobby).

A table can essentially be broken down (and built) as two separate parts: the base and the top.  I’m going to start building the base first.

Part of what consummated the decision of building a replacement table (told here) was the fact that a bump into the table would cause it to sway like a tree in a storm.  To construct a rock-solid table, the joint of choice is the mortise and tenon.  I’ve never done these by hand yet.  What makes this particular table build intimidating is that I want it to be in the Arts & Crafts form as the original was… which, in going beyond the mortise and tenon, means through mortise and tenons.  Fake through mortise and tenonThese are intimidating because they showcase your work: you want the mortise (the hole) to show no space as the tenon (the peg) is fit into it and protrudes out the other side (which is the part people see).  The original table that I’m replicating has through tenons… through fake tenons (pictured at right)… they’re really just little rectangular pieces of wood (caps) glued opposite the beams to look like through tenons.  I won’t do that; I’m a firm believer that if you do a job, do it right.  True through mortise and tenons are what I will be using.

I used mortise and tenon joinery for my workbench (showcased at the top of the Blog), but at that time I used a mortiser machine.  I hated that machine.  In the light of not doing practice cuts, you had to set it up just perfectly to stay in your lines, and then drill out little by little as you’d move the machine back and forth.  As the bit rotated around, it would sometimes go deeper or shallower, or even run and rip out some wood a little past the line.  It was sloppy joinery on my part, but for the bench, it was tight enough (since I cleaned it with a chisel and cut the tenons to match it afterward).  Because of this experience, I was pretty weary of hand-chopping 16 mortises with their tenon counterparts, of which half of those (8) will be through mortises with exposed, visible tenons.

Mortise and Tenon by Frank KlauszSo, the obvious warm up is to start with the stub mortises (the ones that don’t go all the way through).  I bought a mortise video by Frank Klausz that actually went a long way to help me prepare and understand how to do this, as well as beefed up on Roy Underhill’s Panel Door show (which primarily used mortise and tenon).  Watch it by clicking the link if you wish.

Hand chiseling the mortiseMy first practice mortise was the real thing… on the upper leg of my elm table.  I found it to be easier than using a mortiser!  Marking everything with a straight-edge and marking knife probably took 2 or 3 hours, but that was fine.  After marking everything, I decided to go with ½” wide mortises for the legs.  As long as the chisel is as wide as the mortise is, you only really need to mark one side of the cut (which makes it nice), because the width of the chisel will automatically form the opposing wall.  In Elm, it only took 3 sweeps of chopping (back, forth, back) to get the mortise to the desired depth: about ⅔ of the way through the 2½” legs.

A pointer: stand in line with the mortise that you are chopping (like your point of view in the picture at right), rather than beside it (at the front of the bench from the picture at right), to ensure the chisel is perfectly square to the walls of the mortise.

I chopped the first two mortises, cut the tenons, and gave it a test fit: perfect… and way more pleasurable than using a mortiser, though my back was getting a little achy from constantly standing on the tile floor and bending over the mortise.  I tried a few chops from sitting down and it just doesn’t work; you don’t get the same point of view to maintain good chisel control.

One leg joined up

Next was the through tenons at the bottom of the table.  I thought of doing this in two ways: 1) I can chop the mortises, then taper the legs or 2) I can taper the legs first and then chop the mortises.  I went with option 2 because, with through tenons, you see the final product… my chops may have been a little sloppy under the surface, and I didn’t want to taper the legs and find that out.  So off to taper the legs.

I don’t know what angle I tapered them to… I wasn’t using power tools, so it really didn’t matter.  I just went to the bottom of the leg, marked ½” in, and drew a line connecting that mark with the outside of the leg at the top.  I used a saw (sloppily) to get rid of as much waste as I could outside my mark line, then turned to my Jointer Plane to bring the taper down to the line.  After doing this 16 times (4 legs, 4 sides per leg), my triceps were pretty damn tired.

Tapering a leg by hand

Now for the tricky part: marking out through-mortises on tapered legs. Since none of the surfaces are square, I had to devise a way to make accurate marks. What I ended up doing was using a straight scrap board (that was squared up) and setting it next to the leg: the top of the leg and the board were clamped together, and as the leg tapered down to the foot, there was more and more space between the leg and the board. From there, I made my marks using a square referenced against the scrap board.

I cut the mortises more or less the same, but since they’re through mortises, it requires a few extra steps. I started from the outside or “show” side (where people will see the tenon coming through the hole). Staying about ¼” from each end, I chopped about ¼ through the leg.

Chopping a Tapered Mortise

I flipped it over to the “shoulder” side and chopped all the way through to meet the hole from the other side. In two of the legs, the two holes (from each side) weren’t exactly aligned – I would pare out the wall as required to align them from the current side I was working on (the shoulder side). The reason? Yes, this wouldn’t be “the perfect” joint, but the shoulder of the tenon would cover up any spaces caused by widening the wall to meet the opposite side’s wall. Once I made this correction, I’d do the final two chops to bring the mortise (length-wise) to the line on the shoulder side, then flip the leg and make the final two chops on the show side. It worked pretty well.

Through mortise and tenon table base

So, here’s where we stand now… 12 mortises down, 4 to go (the 4 mortises that will go through the table top surface to connect the top to the base).

The Table so Far

I still need to shape the bottom rails and mount the bottom shelf to them… but I think I’ll move onto the table top next.

As one gains familiarity and experience with the craft, you begin to examine other furniture with a much more critical eye.  What’s even worse (and my wife will attest)  is I get the “I can build that!” syndrome.  And truthfully, I think I can do a better job at it.  In today’s consumer society, everything is made out of particle board with veneer and screwed together.  The bad thing about my syndrome is that time is one of my most rarest resources… so I don’t get around to building everything I claim I can build better.

delaminationA long time ago, we’d bought some living room tables from Lazy Boy.  At the time, I thought they were really nice pieces and Pam loved them because they were in an Arts & Crafts style (which we both like).  Keep in mind, this is when I was in the Lowe’s-pre-dimensioned-Oak-with-butt-joints-and-frame-nails stage of woodworking.  And then we had kids.  The tables have seen two moves and have been spilled on and mistreated.  And one day, the nice Oak finish started to delaminate, exposing a cardboard-like material underneath – yuck.  That was the straw that broke the camel’s back; what I failed to mention (leading up to this) is that if you bump the table at all, it sways like a tree in the wind due to the butt-and-screw joinery.

So, with pressure to do something about it from the wife, I am now putting my “I can build that! (and better)” hypothesis to the test.  Even better, I am going to make this my first project done entirely by hand (no power tools… except for maybe sanding/finishing).

The gameplan is to replicate it dimensionally so that I can scalp the glass panels for use in the new table.  As I’ve worked on pieces in the past, I’ve come to the conclusion that I really don’t like Oak too much – most of the boards I’ve seen are too uniform.  If I’m going to build something, I like to see unique irregularities in it to make it one-of-a-kind, otherwise known as knots and figure.  My go-to’s for this are Elm and Walnut.  I have a some Elm left over from my Beer Cabinet build, so it looks like the table will be done with solid Elm.

Table Rebuild

We move in about 2 months, so I better get building.

 

rough-cut elm boardsIt’s funny – projects for me are typically easy to start: I buy some rough-cut boards, start planing them down and squaring them up, and rip or re-saw them into rough dimensions.  It’s about that time that I see the real beauty and potential of the boards I’ve bought.  I start to make plans for my project: I want this knot to show on this part and this figure to be divided up amongst these parts… and then everything comes to a screeching halt.  I’ve arrived at my main hurdle.

This hurdle was very prevalent with power tools and machine woodworking: cutting just a little too much off as it shot through the table saw or a router bit biting a little outside the line or creating a ton of irrepairable tear-out.

The hurdle is the fear of failing.  It’s the fear of ruining a board with awesome figure that I’ll never get back.  This fear in woodworking is not something I can just push past without thought.  I have to conscientiously trudge forward in order to conquer and surpass it.  But usually not without a day’s pause and a lot of daydreaming about the finished product.

Here’s what multiplies this hurdle: I’m lazy…  Or you could call it that I like to be efficient.  The way to build that perfect project with power tools is to spend half a day doing test cuts on scrap pieces of the same dimensions as your final piece (like dovetailing with a router and jig, for example).  I hate this.  I always feel that my time is wasted whenever I’m not working directly on the project – and cutting into scrap pieces or spending a ton of time building jigs, to me, is not working directly on the project.  So, as you can probably predict, there’s a lot of room for improvement for my dovetails and mortise/tenons using power tools.  Truthfully, if the figure of the wood is too beautiful to chance a “first-time run” then I will take test cuts to ensure a better product… but I still hate doing it because I feel like I’m treading water rather than swimming forward.

In using hand tools, I arrive at the same hurdle but without that multiplier.  Why?  Because with hand tools, there is no need for test cuts to ensure the jig or spacing is perfect.  You just mark where the cut needs to be (without using numbers to measure), and cut.  I like that.  I feel like I’m making progress on my project.  Sure, in the end, it may take longer than with power tools, but consider this: total up the time you spend setting up a dovetail jig, making test cuts, adjusting, making more test cuts, then cutting your piece… Unless you are mass producing dovetails (say more than 20 total), I’d be willing to bet I’d finish hand-dovetailing around the same.  I guess it’s like the Tortoise and the Hare race (power tools being the Hare and hand tools being the Tortoise).  Regardless – because I’m constantly inching forward on the actual piece of my project, I feel that my time is validated.

Even better, I find that as I continue to do more and more projects purely by hand, this fear of failure is almost eliminated altogether:

  1. First off, because hand tools don’t zip through the wood (like a table saw or router), there’s time to tell that your cut is starting to deviate from where you want it.  In my experience with power tools, I usually find that the realization comes after you’re well past the point of correction.
  2. Even if the cuts deviate slightly, it’s way easier to salvage the situation.  All you need to do is adjust fire on the mating piece (the piece that you’re joining to the salvaging piece) and the problem is usually solved.  In power tools, you would spend another half a day readjusting your jig to compensate and then starting over with another piece of wood.  I’ve not once had to scrap a piece of wood with great figure because of some sloppy handwork.  In fact, I’m almost finding that handwork can be more accurate than machines in some cases.

All in all, I still take a pause of paralysis when I get to the point of joining and shaping, but then I am comforted by the hand-tool mitigation and can put one foot in front of the other and continue to trudge on.