Wow… I finally have a place I can call “home” again with a reliable internet connection. Throughout the house-hunting process, a make-or-break for us was whether or not the home had a spot I could house ol’ Snakeye Woodworks. Trust me, this unbending priority stopped us from renting a place or two that we otherwise liked.
Prior to moving to Britain, I felt like I was getting some good time in the shop. Especially since I had this unyielding weight over my shoulders to finish about five projects in the time I could only finish one. And I didn’t even make it that far; I still have at least two or three weekends of good work to finish my living room table (and that is just to get it physically built… not finished). So my shop, and projects at various production stages, still sit in boxes for the time being. Soon though, I will have all the time in the world to just sit and work without a deadline of moving looming over me.
Though I found a place to house Snakeye Woodworks, I don’t have anything remotely close to a working shop. It’s a one-car garage:
Over the next few weeks, I’ll be diverting the money and time I use for woodworking towards building a shop I would be proud to work in. As you can see, I think I have my work cut out for me.
On the to-do list:
- Replace the garage door (it’s broken). The landlord agreed to cover this expense.
- Hire a flooring person to put down a floor. I toyed with the idea of buying some plywood and setting it down, but the landlord knows all the people in town that do this type of stuff and said it would be less expensive and easier to get it done by an expert. Time is money and my time is limited, so my landlord wins out. I think I’m going with the cushioned vinyl floor that looks like a wood floor (it will probably be easier to clean up sawdust this way too).
- Hire an electrician to wire some plug sockets and fluorescent-tube lights. I’d do it myself, but I guess there are safety codes in place that prevent this. So I’ll need to install a few overhead lights, with at least two plug sockets to run a space heater, my shop vac, and my Bose/iPod speaker combo.
- Replace the rotting wood shelves with something that is more interior-oriented. This will probably hold my tools until I get my Anarchist’s Tool Chest built.
- A thorough cleaning. There’s spider webs, leaves, rot and bird shit all over the place.
Until further notice, all woodworking projects are on a tactical pause until I have a facility that can accommodate them. More posts on the progress later. Luckily (unlike those websites where guys brag about how grand their shops are with all the electrical considerations and intricacies), I have no power tools to set up so this shop will be quite simple.






















So my learning curve started accelerating when, on a whim, I went to the military base wood shop to build a birthday present for my son. A local Italian guy, Stefano, ran the wood shop and helped me out (perhaps initially more to keep me safe than to ensure it turned out exactly as I’d wanted it!). It was then that I realized that I didn’t know much of the craft: the expanding and contracting of wood during the seasons, the joinery, and how to use the machines without killing yourself (you ever try to run end-grain through a jointer machine?).

So, in a vain effort to prevent the wood from “winning”, he took up the plow plane. (This is almost like Tom Sawyer getting all his buddies to white-wash the fence he was tasked to do!). Using the example I’d shown him in my impatient, defeated attempt at one of the rails, he grabbed the other rail and started planing. He didn’t like the plow plane too much either, so he switched to the shoulder plane like I did. He planed, and he planed, and he planed…
Perhaps I was ready to switch tracks too soon. Because of him, I now had my motivation back; I will still be able to brag that this table was done completely by hand. I grabbed the other rail and continued where I left off… taking one ½-millimeter of waste at a time. After another 1½ hours, I had two 5-foot long rails with a ¾” rabbet cut into their length. With the cuts now at the proper depth, I flipped both the rails on their sides and used the shoulder plane to clean and square up the walls of the rabbets. Total time spent today doing this (including planning the joints, marking them, and cutting them)? We were probably near the 5 hour mark. So perhaps this could’ve been done by a table saw in 30 minutes total, but burning a day to cut these rabbets gained me greater experience with that joint and saved the “hand tool only” virginity of the project.

The blade wasn’t meeting the wood because the straight-edge of the plane was preventing the blade from doing so due to the raised surfaces. That’s a mouthful, but the picture at right should sum that mouthful up.
Now onto the half laps that I purposefully detoured. The long boards were easy enough, because the cut was your standard half lap. Just like cutting a tenon, the key is maintaining an accurate saw cut to your line on the cheeks, and then make the shoulder cut and clean with a plane as required. A test fit (at left) with the glass shows that everything is lining up.
Once they were cut, it was just a matter of fitting them together and continuing to clean out waste (with plane and chisel) until the two boards were mated relatively flat. Some glue, clamps, and about 12 hours, and I had myself a table top.
Armed with only a brief glimpse of Mary May performing her magic on the Woodwright’s Shop (above), I set about to replicate her work – it looks pretty easy. Well… not so much… but I did learn a few things along the way.
As you can see at left, Tip #1 was hard-learned through experience; I chipped out part of the border as well as a little bit of the cursive signature. But, you learn more from mistakes and defeat than you do from wins and doing everything exact the first time… (as I say this through gritted teeth).



this acts more as a knife slicing through the fibers of the wood. Therefore, this is particularly good for trimming and slicing through the finicky end-grain. Most planes with a low-angle pitch have a bevel-up setup, so if you add the bed angle (usually 10-15°) and the blade hone/bevel angle (usually ~25°), you get about a ~40° total pitch. The advantage is the razor-sharp knife slice that allows the trimming of the end-grain; the downfall is that the blade is much more prone to lose it’s razor-sharp edge quicker (or even chip in some cases)
apparently, most planes are set to this because it’s the best trade-off of slicing the wood and maintaining your sharp edge. Hundreds of years of plane use have shown that this is the most optimum angle for softwoods and straight-grained hardwoods. Consider this giving the most versatile options in planing. The bevel is down from here on as the angles increase, so the bed angle is the pitch angle.
Optimum for hardwoods and especially figured hardwoods.
Next is to get this block exactly square… and then truthfully, it will probably sit until after I move (T minus 5 weeks) and get to it – I still have to order a blade. I’m going to get a 1¾” blade with a chip breaker – but now I’m trying to decide if I should order a blade from David Finck or get one from Lie-Nielsen… To be continued.









It’s funny – projects for me are typically easy to start: I buy some rough-cut boards, start planing them down and squaring them up, and rip or re-saw them into rough dimensions. It’s about that time that I see the real beauty and potential of the boards I’ve bought. I start to make plans for my project: I want this knot to show on this part and this figure to be divided up amongst these parts… and then everything comes to a screeching halt. I’ve arrived at my main hurdle.